After spending day after day in the brazen heat and humidity trying to get our new home furnished, our internet and phones installed, all the big appliances at different ends of the city, through the pollution and dust, we decided to take some time out and head to the mountains for fresh air. Only a few minutes from downtown by car or motorbike, the surroundings suddenly shift from concrete to lush, green, tropical vegetation. The air is suddenly fresher and cooler. We had a drink at Budoy on Tops, owned by Cebu popular artist and musician Budoy Marabiles, with an unparalleled view on the city.

The following day we headed down to the beach. We didn't really know where we were going, but I had seen a picture of a pretty sandbar with turquoise water on a tourist map of Cebu, and I wanted to go there. After a forty-five minute ride on the motorbike we ended up at a sort of deserted pier. A man came up to us and offered to take us across to an island on his boat. He said it was good for swimming, and that we could have some fish grilled and eat on his boat. After a quick haggle, we hopped in and enjoyed the half-hour ride on the banca, grateful to be on the ocean after three weeks on land.
We snorkelled a bit and saw a couple fishes but not much coral. Another man came and sold us a bunch of shellfish, which he grilled for us for lunch. We had the sea mantis which was like a little lobster and was very tasty.

Still, the highlight of our two days R&R remains for me the buko (young coconut) pie I had after the beach. This is one of my favorite Filipino desserts when done properly. Unfortunately most of the time it is a disappointment of cardboard-like pastry with barely a filling to speak of. It is a specialty of Laguna if I am not mistaken, South of Manila. This one was shipped from the town of Capiz, on the nearby island of Panay. It had perfectly flaky crust and a tender, luscious filling of young coconut and sweet cream. I can't wait to make one in my new oven!