Sunday, January 20, 2013

Lisbon

I'd been wanting to go to Portugal for a long time as I had heard so many great things about it, and let me just say that I was not disappointed. The first thing to notice about Lisbon is that it is hilly, and covered in little white cobblestones for the most part. It was a good thing that I brought my stomping boots as no heels would have survived these streets (at least if I am the one wearing them).
The next thing about Lisbon was the food. Of course wherever I go this is what I look out for, and it just so happened that I love bacalhau (salted cod) and natas, the marvelously addictive little egg pies which the Lisboan would have for breakfast along side one hell of a strong espresso.
Other than natas there is of course the ubiquitous cod fish. I had a few disappointing fritters which were served cold (ew) but two redeeming versions which I will forever remember... The Bacalhau Espiritual (a mash of fish, cream and vegetables) at the small Fernandino's diner-like place, and the stunning Bacalhau dish at Jose Avillez's cantina de Avillez. Mr Avillez is one of Lison's most celebrated chefs and definitely lived up to his reputation.
This dish looks simple and rustic when in fact it it contains "explosive" olives, which are in fact olive-shaped pods filled with a succulent green fluid which literally pop or explode in your mouth. I am grateful to Frank Bruni for recommending this restaurant (along with three others I didn't get to try) in his article "How I Fell for Lisbon" which appeared on 25 March 2012 in the New York Times.
Back to natas, which are a real institution in Lisbon. I was thrilled to stumble upon The World Needs Nata store, a tiny outlet devoted entirely to the sweet portuguese delicacy.
Lastly the pretty view from the Castello San Jorge of the town, the river and the bridge... Next stop for me, the Philippines!

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